The Panic, Up Close And Personal

I’ve seen Widespread Panic around 20 times, so I basically know what to expect when I join legions of other Raleigh ‘Spread Heads to catch WSP at Alltel Pavilion: a long show packed with energy, lengthy jams and solos, and a performance that leaves you exhausted and grinning. Hell, the Panic at the Creek has long sort of signified the start of summer for myself and the friends I go with.

But something I wasn’t expecting happened on Friday, April 25: I found myself in the second row, center … about 20 feet from lead singer and guitarist John Bell.

A friend had scored big-time on four tickets unbelievably close to the stage, and when he invited me along for the show on the day after my birthday, I jumped at the opportunity. I quickly grabbed the new CD, “Free Somehow,” and got pumped up for another outing with Bell, bassist Dave Schools, drummer Todd Nance, percussionist Sunny Ortiz and keyboardist JoJo Hermann. Guitarist (and North Carolina native) Jimmy Herring is the newest member of the band, having joined WSP about a year and a half ago. Widespread has been struggling to replace guitarist and band backbone Michael Houser since 2002, when he passed away from pancreatic cancer. So I was eager to have a front-row (almost) view of Herring to see how he was fitting in.

As usual, I was blown away. WSP opend with the crowd-pleasing “Conrad,” followed by one of my favorites, “Pleas.” Next came “Contentment Blues,” “Cream Puff War,” “Time Zones,” “Trouble” and “A of D.” The Panic brought the first set to a resounding close with “You Should Be Glad” (video below) and a roaring “Papa Legba.”

After a short intermission to let everyone catch their breaths and grab another brew (I couldn’t find any hallucinogenic Reese’s Cups, tho), Widespread opened the second set with “Flicker,” the first and only song they played from the latest album. “Worried” and “Use Me Up” came next, followed by a searing, epic three-song outburst of “Makes No Sense to Me,” “Rebirtha” and “Hatfield.” At one point, one of the jacklegs who was sitting in the front row went running up on stage, quickly jumped off and hid behind a group of folks to avoid getting tossed out. By the time the familiar opening chords of “Hatfield” (one of my top handful of WSP tracks) rung out, the crowd was whipped into a frenzy. “Mr. Soul” was the finale to the second set, and the buzz began to drift through the sweaty, shaking fans: “What would the encore be?”

The answer was the War classic “Slippin Into Darkness,” followed up by “Bowlegged Woman” (“Well, you and me, baby, go hand in hand/Like a bowlegged woman, and a knock-kneed man”). It was a phenomenal show (again), even though I was a day early in catching noted violinist Ann Marie Calhoun handling the intro to “Surprise Valley” at the Creek. Oh well; maybe next year.

I’ll be back … probably not in the second row again, but I’ll always be back for the Panic.

Ireland, Day 5, April 10: Trinity College, Kilmainham Gaol, Guinness Storehouse

Day 5 got off to a shaky start, complete with a forbidding weather forecast once again (“cold and rainy”) and some early-day appliance difficulties (a fried flat iron like in the movie “Just Married,” which happened to be on the previous evening). Yet we had another busy day ahead of us, and a few raindrops and chilled bones weren’t going to slow us down.

Our first stop was at Trinity College, just a short walk from our hotel. Once on campus, we were quickly struck with the beauty and sense of history that was seemingly palpable in the air.


We had initially deciding against seeing the Book of Kells, a 1,200-year-old illuminated manuscript, a “masterwork of Western calligraphy” and “widely regarded as Ireland’s national treasure,” located in the Trinity College Library. We had been warned that the lines were always super-long and it would be difficult to get a good view of the book itself. However, the lines weren’t too bad, so we elected to give it a try. Not only was the display itself phenomenal (alas, no photography, which was understandable), but the long room of the library upstairs was stunning as well, with a long line of busts of distinguished writers, such as William Shakespeare and Jonathan Swift, and Greek philosophers as well. As a bonus, we saw a group of Italians that we had seen the previous day at Newgrange. Small world. Another short walk through the tremendous Trinity College campus brought us to the verge of our next adventure.


We had tickets for the Hop On, Hop Off, a double-decker bus that tours the city with 25 different stops, any of which you can get off on (hence, “Hop Off”), then get back on when the next bus comes by 15 minutes later (hence, “Hop On”). Since the morning was pretty and the weather was holding up, we went up to the open-air second deck of the bus and took in some of Dublin’s sights. The driver/narrator of the bus was pretty funny, and kept us suitably entertained until we got to our next stop, the famous Kilmainham Gaol.


Since our tour of the 200-year-old jail didn’t begin for a while, we went up for some coffee and tea in the tearoom, where we noticed the “Sprockets” German couple, who we had also seen at Stonehenge the previous day. Wow. (Now is the time on Sprockets when we dance.) When our tour began, we got lucky with our guide once again. He was a knowledgeable, passionate Irishman who told us the story of Kilmainham Gaol’s vital role in the Easter Rising of 1916, which eventually lead to independence from British rule for southern Ireland. Prisoners were subjected to horrific conditions, overcrowding and disease at the jail, with as many as five prisoners confined to a single cell.


During times of extreme poverty throughout the region, many people committed crimes just to get sent to jail and get meals. Yet as the times got worse, an underground revolution began, highlighted by the quote inscribed on a wall by Patrick Pearse (later one of the authors of the Irish Proclamation of Freedom on April 24, 1916): “Beware of the Risen People Who Have Harried and Held, Ye That Have Bullied and Bribed.”


Long story short (yeah, yeah, too late, I get it), 16 of the rebels involved in the Easter Rising were executed in the courtyard at Kilmainham Gaol. The most famous execution was that of James Connolly, who had been terminally injured during fighting at the Easter Rising; yet he was still sat down and tied to a chair and shot to death in the jail’s courtyard. A solemn black cross still stands on the spot where he was executed.


Connolly’s death without honor and treatment by the British was so despicable that it actually began to sway the tide of popular Irish opinion away from Britain and toward independence. The jail was eventually abandoned and began to rot away, but a voluntary restoration movement was begun in 1960 to resurrect it and return it to its pivotal place in the history of Ireland. Now, the jail is a popular spot for movies, with “Michael Collins,” “Boondock Saints,” “In the Name of the Father” and “The Wind That Shakes the Barley” all shot there in the last 15 years, as well as the U2 video for “A Celebration.” Visiting the jail was quite an unexpectedly moving and informational experience about the fight for Irish independence.

A meandering, longer-than-anticipated walk brought us to a place where we could toast those brave rebels of yesteryear and check out Ireland’s true national treasure: The Guinness Storehouse.


Since we had bought our tour tickets in advance, we were able to bypass the lengthy lines to get in and view the seven-floor storehouse facility. Considered the No. 1 visitor attraction in Dublin, the Guinness Storehouse is located in the middle of the 65-acre facility that comprises the second-largest brewery in the world. Interactive exhibits, examples of old marketing campaigns, a description of the brewing process, an enormous store and other notable displays are peppered throughout the storehouse. The original harp that is a crucial part of the Guinness logo is located here as well.


One of the first things you see upon entering is the original 9,000-year lease for the brewery signed by a forward-thinking Arthur Guinness.


We sampled the four crucial elements involved in brewing Guinness, as well as the all-important “fifth ingredient”: Arthur Guinness himself. What’s the result?


Walking all those floors left us famished and yearning to try a bit of what we had been smelling and seeing. So we stopped off at the sixth-floor restaurant, where I enjoyed a phenomenal dish: Guinness, pork and leek sausage, with mashed potato and red onion compote. I also had a Foreign Extra Stout, a variety that was originally brewed in 1801 but is unavailable in North America (probably because of its 7.5 alcohol percentage). It was a little more carbonated than the usual Guinness, but still very good and ideal with lunch.

Finally, we ended the tour with the trademark free Guinness at the Gravity Bar on the seventh floor. Featuring floor-to-ceiling glass that overlooks all parts of Dublin, the Gravity Bar was a neat experience, but it was packed with schoolkids hanging out in groups, drinking Coke and taking up all the seating. Still, a lofty perch, a free brew and a stunning view of Dublin was the perfect way to end our visit to the Guinness Storehouse.


We grabbed the next Hop On, Hop Off over to the north side of the city, where the route ended and we had to hop off to wait for the next bus and the beginning of the ride back to Grafton Street. It was mesmerizing to watch insane bicyclists fly in and out of traffic and skirt buses in tiny bicycle-only lanes, but the weather was getting very cold (still no rain though!) and some spillage in the back of the bus from some overzealous fellow tourists made it essential to get back to the hotel soon.

After catching up on some of the Masters and resting up for a bit, it was time to walk down to the Temple Bar district, where we had reservations at Gallagher’s Boxty House (apparently voted the Best Irish Restaurant by BBC viewers). We had been urged to try a boxty, a very traditional Irish food that is basically a potato pancake with various fillings inside. I ordered a seafood boxty with a Murphy’s Red Ale, and both were amazing. The restaurant was packed, so even if you have reservations, you basically sit down at picnic-like tables, elbow to elbow with strangers. It was a different experience, but it was certainly an awesome one.


Following a somewhat disappointing visit to Davy Byrne’s the previous night, I wanted to pick a more authentic pub to check out after our dinner. Hell, there are 714 pubs in Dublin, so that shouldn’t be a tall order, right? I settled on Mulligan’s, another historical pub very rich in literary history. As soon as we walked in the door, we knew that we had picked a winner. The bar and lounge were packed, but the feeling was very genuine and authentic, complete with beautiful, intricate lattice work on the ceilings and old-school lamp and chandelier holders. We eventually found a coupla seats and enjoyed a Guinness or two at Mulligan's before finally heading back to the hotel. It was a long, exhausting day, but as our path took us past the darkened Trinity College campus, we still animatedly talked about all the amazing things we had seen throughout the course of the day, from painstakingly rendered, ancient texts … to dusty old cells with echoes of pain and whispers of revolt … to everything that goes into the black gold that courses through the veins of Dubliners young and old.

Yet it was time to put our instant memories aside — and rest up for our final full day in Dublin …


The next (and final) installment of the Irish adventure, Day 6, will be forthcoming in a coupla days. P.S. You can click on the pix for bigger versions if you like. All photos taken by the Scoot. Click on the Ireland tag below for accounts from other days along the trip. Giddyup.

Swimming Upstream, Tuna’s Solid First Draft Falls Short Of Great

The Dolphins appeared to have a solid draft this weekend, getting things off to a great start by locking up first overall pick Jake Long in the middle of the week to take some pressure off. The first day went very well for Miami, with Long being followed by a guy that many had going in the first round, defensive end Philip Merling, and then snapping up signal-caller Chad Henne, who found himself sliding all the way down the second round.

Henne was snared with the pick acquired from San Diego in the trade for Chris Chambers, which would appear to be a fair swap for both sides at this point. Also, prior to the draft, Miami sent a fourth-rounder to Dallas in exchange for potential starters Anthony Fasano (tight end) and Akin Ayodele (linebacker). Plus, to recoup that fourth-rounder, the ‘Fins sent promising back Lorenzo Booker to the Eagles for Philly’s pick in that round. While I was initially disappointed in the decision to send Booker packing, essentially Miami got Fasano and Ayodele for Booker, which is a trade I can definitely live with.

After a first day that had me optimistic and satisfied, I was somewhat disappointed with Miami’s work on the all-important second day. I was amazed that the Dolphins didn’t select any secondary players, since Miami’s defensive backfield is nondescript, unimposing, thin and lacking in established players. The ‘Fins also didn’t come away with a wide receiver, another position group where the team is absolutely screaming for help. I fear that the triumvirate of Bill Parcells, Jeff Ireland and Tony Sparano got a little too cute on the second day, and appeared to go away from their philosophy of selecting established, productive, injury-free, high-character prospects from name programs. Obviously, we won’t know for sure for two or three more years, but I felt the momentum gained and generated on day one wasn’t carried over to the second day.

All in all, however, I am pleased with Miami’s haul — especially in light of the failures of recent drafts. Six of the nine picks were linemen, fulfilling an enormous need on both sides of the line of scrimmage for the 'Fins, who are finally prescribing to the philosophy that games are won and lost in the trenches. If the team can get three starters next year from the Class of 2008, I’ll be very happy.

First round (number freaking one overall): OT Jake Long, Michigan, 6-7, 315 pounds
Notes: Ideal pick for the ‘Fins, and one that would have been screwed up royally by Rick Spielman, Dave Wannstedt, Rick Mueller, Cam Cameron, Jimmy Johnson or Nick Saban. A behemoth offensive lineman who automatically makes Miami better at three positions: left tackle (where he’ll play), right tackle (they can switch Vernon Carey from left to right tackle, where he’s a better fit) and quarterback (whether it’s Josh McCown, John Beck or even Chad Henne).

Second round (32nd overall): DE Philip Merling, Clemson, 6-5, 272
Notes: Big kid who played in Gaines Adams’s shadow for the underachieving Tigers in the not-so-hot ACC. You never want to read “recovering from a sports hernia” with a high-round pick, but this is a guy who could push Matt Roth for playing time and eventually assume Jason Taylor’s spot along the Dolphins’ defensive line.

Second round (57th overall): QB Chad Henne, Michigan, 6-2, 225
Notes: Forever to be known as the “Green Lantern Jaw,” Henne has a jaw that’s bigger than the rest of his head, then slid down the draft rankings as Saturday progressed. He was rumored to be a Miami target with the 32nd overall pick, which would not have been a good value selection. However, nabbing him at No. 57 is a solid move for a guy that could challenge Beck and McCown for playing time relatively early, thanks to a four-year starting career at Michigan and a gritty demeanor. He’ll love having his Wolverines teammate, Long, protecting his backside as well.

Third round (66th overall): DE Kendall Langford, Hampton, 6-6, 295
Notes: The ‘Fins tried to get a little too clever here and got burned, in my opinion. Having the first overall pick on Day 2 should’ve given the team all evening to field trade offers, re-evaluate the board, reshuffle priorities and land a highly overlooked player. Instead, Miami traded down two spots (for a sixth-rounder), and speculation is that the player they had targeted, guard John Greco of Toledo, was taken one spot before their pick here by the St. Louis Rams. So the Dolphins doubled up on defensive ends, going against their m.o. by taking a small-school, unproven product here. Langford has terrific size and is reportedly a strong fit for a 3-4 defense, but with overwhelming needs along the offensive line and in the secondary, I felt the ‘Fins dropped the ball here and missed out on a great opportunity.

Fourth round (110th overall): OT Shawn Murphy, Utah State, 6-4, 320
Notes: Miami traded up to grab Murphy here, which could have been a reaction move in missing out on their offensive line guy in the third round. Shawn is the son of Dale Murphy, former Atlanta Braves outfielder with an Austin Powers-worthy mole; no truth to the rumor that the ‘Fins used a seventh-round pick to choose Shawn’s father’s mole. Murphy was a guy that the Miami papers had been talking up in recent weeks, so you knew that the Dolphins had a heavy interest in him. As a 25-year-old rookie, he’ll have added maturity and an opportunity to play early, but the question becomes how he’ll handle the transition to right guard, since the starting tackle spots would appear to be locked up already.

Sixth round (176th overall): RB Jalen Parmele, Toledo, 6-0, 224
Notes: A vowel away from being a distant cousin of one-time Dolphins fan-favorite Bernie Parmele, this kid is reputedly a bruising runner. With Ronnie Brown coming off a serious knee injury; Ricky Williams being, well, Ricky Williams; Lorenzo Booker having been traded to Philadelphia; and fellow draftee Hilliard most likely switching to fullback, it would appear that Parmele would have a shot to make the team if he can shine on special teams early on.

Sixth round (195th overall): OG Donald Thomas, Connecticut, 6-4, 303
Notes: Here's the beef: the third offensive line selection for the Dolphins in this draft. A former walk-on with little football experience, so he’ll be a project at best for Miami down the road. Further complicating matters, he attacked a fast-food worker during his junior year in Storrs (they didn’t Super-size his fries, maybe?), so character flags are out there as well. This looks like purely a flier pick on a guy with the measurables that teams like, minus the productivity, experience, self-control and healthy eating habits. Good luck, Donald.

Seventh round (204th overall): RB Lex Hilliard, Montana, 5-11, 228
Notes: Besides looking a lot like former NBA bust Kenny “Sky” Walker, Hilliard fought through some series injuries at Montana to emerge as a hard-charging back. Obviously, the competition level he faced is a huge question mark, and his injury background is what relegated him to the tail end of the NFL Draft. But he’s a guy who will likely be transitioned to fullback. And since Miami’s starting fullback is best known for running through drywall and attacking people on South Beach instead of actually, like, playing football, let’s just say that Hilliard will have a very good opportunity to make the team despite his low draft status.

Seventh round (245th overall): DE Lionel Dotson, DE, Arizona, 6-4, 296
Notes: Tabbed as another “project player,” Dotson is another guy who fits the mold of what Miami is looking for in its 3-4 defensive linemen. He could be a swing player for the ‘Fins, moving inside to tackle in certain situations or coming off the edge in others. His best attribute would appear to be his non-stop motor, and if there’s one thing that Bill Parcells prizes, it’s players that go all out, every play. Dotson is a guy who could wind up on the developmental practice squad if he can show some flashes of potential in training camp. At the very least, you can never argue with taking a flier on a jumbo athlete along the line of scrimmage in the seventh round.

Limerick Friday LXXVII: The Double-Talk Express Keeps Rolling

A visit to the Ninth Ward for John McCain and his crew
Pointed criticism of W and his cabinet, too
It’s easy to say, “Never again” and then get on a private jet
You may have Alzheimer’s, but did you really think we’d forget
That you voted against a relief bill when New Orleans really needed you?

I’m looking for a way to get out of my own head
I’d rather be listening to music outside instead
Got second-row seats to see the Panic tonight
Some “Porch Song” might make it all seem all right
My soul gets a little soothed when I turn to Widespread

After a long wait, it’s Draft Day Eve all across the NFL
It’s time for Kiper flanked by former players who can’t spell
Who’ll trade up to get the guy that they think they need?
Who’ll pick a player who can’t catch but has speed?
May finally have a Dolphins draft where I’m not saying, “What the hell!?”

A racist political ad in N.C. from the Republican side
Why am I not in the least surprised?
McCain has put up a mild protest
But he benefits from this political litmus test
North Carolina is still the state that others deride

“The Office” zips along as hilarious as ever
“30 Rock” finds new ways to be original and clever
Old shows that are coming back, with no slouch
Thursday night finds me like a statue on a couch
Will “Lost” ever stop being fascinating? No, never

Last time ...

A B-Day For G-Dog

Since it is Gallo’s birthday (and mine) today (and my Dad’s), I thought I’d put together a quick update on him for those who have been asking after him.

Last Friday, Gallo went through his third round of chemotherapy to treat his hemangiosarcoma. During the same visit, he also had an echocardiogram, which is designed to test the health of his heart muscles and whether the chemo drug they are using (Doxyrubicin) was affecting the overall function or strength of his heart. Since he had been butt-dragging a lot of late, we also had his anal glands expressed for the first time, which had results that made a bath afterward a must. Then he got blow-dried and brushed out. So if he was ever going to either attack me or run away, this was going to be the day.

Yet the positive news is that G’Lo handled the chemo and following fluid IV well, and he passed the EKG with good results as well. I had to wait about 20 minutes extra when I went to pick him up since he was just getting out of the bath, but when he came out, he looked a little tired but no worse for wear.

Gallo has gone through a few relatively minor side effects, but nothing too serious. From having IVs put in the same area so consistently, he developed a hardening of the skin on one of his forepaws, which irritated him and led him to bite at it. So we had to treat that with a spray applied twice a day that both made it taste bitter and helped it heal. His appetite and energy level wanes with the chemo, and he has little interest in water for much of the time. We feed him eggs and rice to help settle his stomach, and we spike his food with chicken stock and his water with apple juice. He has also begun to lose his whiskers and some of the hair around his ears and eyes. Those who know G’Lo well will tell you that he has plenty of hair to lose, but it is a little jarring to see him looking thinner and thinner every day. A kind friend has offered to take him wig shopping, but we’ll see. The vet tells us that his hair will eventually grow back, and he is beginning to put back some of the weight that he has lost through the early part of his treatment.

So he is now seven weeks through a 14-week treatment program, with two more chemo days remaining. Tomorrow, he’ll get his blood count checked, and then next week he’ll have a much-needed rest week. He may be the only dog who actually prefers his normal hard food to human foods such as eggs and rice, but luckily for us, he freaking loves his Science Diet. Plus, he handles his seemingly never-ending routine of pills and medications like a champ, with much thanks to the beloved liver Pill Pockets. He still tears around the yard, chases his toys around inside and he made it through a week-long stay with my parents in Hampstead while we were in Ireland … and that is something I couldn’t have made it through (I kid, I kid).

Gallo has handled a difficult time and a challenging process as well as could possibly be expected, and while it is difficult to see him losing so much of his trademark hair, we can’t argue with his progress thus far. Thanks as always to all of you who have sent along best wishes and prayers … they all appear to be working in their own way.

UPDATE, APRIL 25, 9:24 A.M.: As usual, I may have spoken a bit too soon on Gallo. During a walk yesterday, we noticed that Gallo was having difficulty defecating, and also spotted some blood in his stool (not much of a birthday for the poor guy). After calling our doctor, it was recommended that we give G some Immodium, rice and oatmeal to calm what was diagnosed as a "spastic colon" (this may be the most terrifying medical term I have ever heard). Not knowing what to make of the oatmeal, G'Lo ate just a little bit of it. We were headed into the vet this morning anyway for his normal blood count check, so they took a stool sample and discovered a slightly above normal amount of bacteria, red blood cells and white blood cells. Also, his red blood cell count was somewhat below normal. We were given the option of having him hospitalized today so he could be monitored and administered fluids, or sending him home with a different form of medication. I decided to have Gallo stay at the vet today (I don't think he was on board with my vote) so they could determine whether there was something more that could be done or something they may have missed. Our doctor mentioned that we may have to switch Gallo from the Doxyrubicin chemo drug to the other variety. I would rather not have to switch drugs on Gallo more than halfway through his treatment, but the doctor mentioned that G'Lo has a sensitive gastrointestinal tract and it was something to consider. We are slated to pick up G-boy in the early evening, so hopefully he will be feeling better by then.

Ireland, Day 4, April 9: Trim Castle, Slane, Newgrange … Dublin!

Shortly after waking up in Kildare, we were eager to hit the road toward Dublin (and I’m pumped to finally bid adieu to the trusty Focus), so we head downstairs for the complimentary breakfast at the eminently iffy Derby House Hotel. Owned by a Chinese family, the hotel features a Chinese restaurant downstairs, so we head inside to grab a quick bite. A Chinese guy in a tuxedo rushes over to take our order. Trying to overcome a huge communication gap (mostly derived from a couple of Americans attempting to explain the concept of a complimentary breakfast to a Chinese person in an Irish hotel; we think he kept saying, “All breakfast”), we eventually seem to get the point across that we are guests of the hotel and will just enjoy the complimentary spread nearby, mostly made up of cereal, fruit and juices. After having a banana, some orange juice and a bit of cereal, we are just about ready to leave when Short Round appears out of nowhere with two enormous Irish breakfasts: two puddings, bangers, sausage, egg, tomato and beans. Almost full already, we can only eat a little bit of this, and having already crossed the shaky communication bridge, we weren’t ready to embark on a 10-minute conversation to explain this to our waiter. So we finally leave, having endured one of the most bizarre meals in dining history: two separate breakfasts served to American tourists in a Chinese restaurant in an Irish hotel by an Asian guy in a tuxedo. Serenity now.

Still slightly in shock, we head back on the road, encountering road construction nearly everywhere we go in County Kildare. Battling more map-reading difficulty, we stop off for gas again and eventually make it to Trim, where, after further directional struggles, we eventually find our way to Trim Castle.


Constructed in 1176, Trim Castle is perhaps most famous for being featured in the movie “Braveheart” (Mel Gibson apparently threw a Jew off one of the turrets here, but I think they cut that scene). It was originally sanctioned by Henry II and built by Hugh de Lacy to thwart the possibility of the construction of an Anglo-Norman kingdom within Ireland.


Situated on the River Boyne, aspects of the keep, the Trim Gate, the Barbican Gate, the Solar and the Great Hall are still standing. There is even an underground passageway that is intact, leading from the cellar of the Great Hall to the River Gate that received boats and supplies from the river.


We took a short walk across the bridge that spans the River Boyne, and in addition to seeing a few stray sheepdogs and an original sheep gate, we checked out an old religious tower on a nearby hill.


The well-preserved remains and ruins of the castle were stunning, to say the least. To be in the presence and literal shadow of more than 800 years of history was phenomenal. We passed up the guided tour so we could walk the grounds ourselves, but I did make myself use the bathroom near the front gate. After all, how often can you say you peed in a castle?


After the welcome late-morning stop in Trim, we jumped back on the road, headed for Slane in County Meath. When we finally untangled from the slow traffic and construction of the country back roads, we rocketed east down the M7 and N7. I was struck by the good, courteous driving of the Irish roadsters; they recognized that the right line was to be used only when passing, and when they did so, they immediately shifted back into the left lane. However, the mind-numbing roundabouts still popped up a little too often for my liking. I had one episode in a crowded roundabout that briefly harkened up a memory of Clark Griswald getting stuck in a roundabout in “European Vacation” (“Big Ben! Parliament!”), but I eventually rocketed out the right opening and was back on track

Yet I was learning the lay of the land and gaining confidence in understanding how the Irish drive. I got the impression that these people never quite embraced the automobile; instead, they view it as a necessary nuisance. That’s why cars are beat all to hell, insurance is through the roof and cars are parked anywhere.

We made it to Slane, which is the biggest city near Newgrange, which is a centuries-old Irish passage tomb and home to one of the most extensive collections of Neolithic art in Europe. The tombs lay down a random dirt road, basically, so without seeing any signs anywhere, we just kept driving until we ran into the visitors’ center. After checking out the museum for a while, it was time for our bus to leave and take us out to the site.


The Newgrange site itself is comprised of three passage tombs: Newgrange (the main one), Knowth (the second-most well-known) and Dowth (the least well-known). Tours were available to bring you to all three, but we elected to take the more comprehensive tour of Newgrange itself (I mean … when you’ve seen one Irish passage tomb, you’ve seen them all, right?). Upon being allowed to walk around the exterior of the mound, the beauty and painstaking detail of the white quartz façade jumped out at us.


We also were blown away by the intricate scroll work done thousands of years ago on rocks that lay all around the circumference of the mound.


The tomb itself is protected by a kerb of 97 stones, like the one above. Speculation is that these enormous rocks were brought to the site from up to 40 kilometers away. Experts guess that it took up to 80 men four days to move a two-ton rock five kilometers (or something like that). The workers would cut down trees that lay in their path as they went, then slid the rocks along the fallen trees on their way. In addition, 14 stones also lay in a perfect circle surrounding the mound itself.


We had a great tour guide, who was informational and funny, and he told us that the Newgrange tomb was estimated to be 5,000 years old—predating Stonehenge, the Great Wall of China and the pyramids. Wow. The group was divided into two smaller clusters of people so that we would be able to walk down the long passage and into the cross-shaped chamber that lay in the middle of the tomb (alas, no photography allowed inside due to the spiritual nature of the tomb itself). Here, we were given a demonstration of the winter solstice phenomenon — created when the light makes a perfect line all the way to the middle of the tomb during the winter solstice. Seen as a spiritual event, there is a decades-long waiting list to take part in this phenomenon, but the visitors’ center was holding a lottery to pick lucky winners to participate during the next winter solstice (*fingers crossed*).

There are many theories about just what Newgrange was for and the types of religious rituals that took place here. The excavation began just 46 years ago, so there is still much to learn of this site. The most controversial aspect of the reconstruction of the falling tomb was the entrance (below), which was re-envisioned by Professor M.J. O’Kelly. The ancient entrance and passage were very narrow, leading some tourists in our group to turn back due to claustrophobia; I pushed on, proud of myself. I’m not sure I would have been able to forgive myself if I would have missed out on seeing a 5,000-year-old burial chamber and light demonstration because of a case of mild claustrophobia.


Awed by the visit to Newgrange, we finally departed, setting out for Dublin Airport, which was only 45 minutes or so away. Here, we would finally return the frazzled Focus and hop an AutoCoach into Dublin. When we got to the airport, we found it to be a hectic maze, but we eventually tracked down the Hertz lot and gave back the Focus. Final tally? I had put 855 kilometers on the rental car in about three and a half days, subjecting it to some of the sketchiest and narrowest roads in Europe. I have to admit that I was going to miss the little car somewhat; we had become one during several points of the trip, including some death grips on the steering wheel that I wasn't sure I'd ever be able to get loose of (think "Planes, Trains and Automobiles").

After seeing that the exchange rate had risen from 1.56 to 1.62 in just four days (ugh), we found an AutoCoach and sat back for the remaining 30-minute jaunt into Dublin proper. Getting off at Trinity College, we trekked a few blocks around southern Dublin with all of our luggage before finally stumbling into the Brooks Hotel, our home for the next few days. The lobby was packed, but when we finally got our room, I breathed an enormous sigh of relief. We now had a headquarters, establishing a home base of sorts, and we could walk and ride buses the rest of the way — no more driving to worry about.

Tired, hungry and craving a Guinness, we set out for Davy Byrnes, the choice for the evening’s dinner following a brief rest to review the day’s pictures and get situated. Dublin has one of the fastest-growing populations of any European city, and we saw why firsthand as we cut through the bustling, pedestrian-only shopping district of Grafton Street. The landmark Davy Byrnes Pub is located down a side street off Grafton.


Made famous by James Joyce’s epic novel, “Ulysses,” Davy Byrnes is where the main character, Leopold Bloom, stopped for a gorgonzola cheese sandwich and a glass of burgundy during his wanderings around Dublin. However, we found the pub to be highly modernized and not as authentic or historical as we had expected. Yet the open smoked salmon sandwich and chips were very good, and the Guinnesses were just what the doctor ordered after another long day of driving and sightseeing.

After dinner, we walked back past Trinity College and the famous Molly Malone (“The Dish with the Fish” or “The Tart with the Cart”) statue — the most photographed monument in Dublin, which is odd since she is most infamous for being a hooker who inspired a popular song (*shrug*). Passing McDonald’s, Burger King, T.G.I. Friday’s, Hard Rock and other American institutions along Grafton Street, we made our way back to our hotel. On the telly, we were amused to find only “Crocodile Dundee,” “Just Married” and a Manchester United vs. AS Roma football game.

Before calling it a day, I made a note to myself to find a more authentic pub tomorrow. Another action-packed slate awaited us tomorrow, with a trip to check out the Book of Kells at Trinity College, a bus tour around the city … and an afternoon visit to the by-god Guinness Storehouse. Mmm … beer.


The next installment of the Irish adventure, Day 5, will be forthcoming in a coupla days. P.S. You can click on the pix for bigger versions if you like. All photos taken by the Scoot. Giddyup.

Good Draft Day News A Long Time Coming For Dolfans

It’s a story as old as spring itself: Every April, usually within a day or three of my birthday, I plop down in front of the NFL Draft. And 48 hours later, I walk away shaking my head, feeling dumber and dirtier. Watching the Miami Dolphins draft is like watching a monkey F a football.

With the arrival of “Big Tuna,” Bill Parcells, and a cadre of his cronies led by coach Tony Sparano and general manager (and Ron Howard look-alike) Jeff Ireland, optimism abounded around Dolphins land. But hell, this was a similar script as the one laid down by Jimmy Johnson and Nick Saban, right? So optimism lasts for about 23 seconds as a Dolfan, or roughly the same amount of time that Trent Green can play football without sustaining a concussion.

That’s why I took a cautious approach to having the first overall pick in the 2008 NFL Draft. Not only does that “honor” come with the mandate that you have to guarantee at least $30 million to a player who has never put on cleats in the NFL, but you also have to do so in a year where you’re choosing from a lot of really good players, but arguably no great ones. So when Miami struck a deal yesterday with behemoth Michigan offensive tackle Jake Long, four days before the start of the draft, I breathed a sigh of relief. It was the best, safest, smartest, solidest move for the franchise to make, and amazingly, one that the “big three” Miami papers — the Miami Herald, the Ft. Lauderdale Sun-Sentinel and the Palm Beach Post — all endorsed.

And even though it means much of the drama that surrounds draft day has been taken away a few days in advance … it also might mean that I could walk away from the NFL Draft without shaking my head and cursing for the first time in a very, very long time.

So welcome, Jake Long.

Now … how are you at throwing the ball?

Happy Earth Day!

Today is Earth Day.

Begun nearly 40 years ago, Earth Day was envisioned as a celebration of the grassroots movement to address environmental concerns. As evidenced by global warming, increased reliance on “dirty” fuel and other pressing issues, this movement never caught on at the higher levels of government and business.

If you’re interested in doing something for the planet today, here is a link that details 10 tools for the best Earth Day ever. Here’s another that provides ideas for changes that could impact the environment. And here’s one more link from a guy who looks like a cross between Mick Jagger, one of the Hanson brothers from “Slap Shot” and Rick Moranis’s character from “Strange Brew.” Good times.

So read up on Earth Day. Think about any subtle changes you might be able to make. And set about doing a small bit in the hopes that your grandchildren might someday have a planet to put their arms around.

Ireland, Day 3, April 8: Scooter’s Emerald Isle Marathon Motorcade

After waking up and enjoying a breakfast of poached eggs and bacon prepared by our hostess, Maggie (we met another person staying at the B&B who was actually from Charlotte, N.C.; small world), I psyched myself up for a long day of driving with a heavy sigh. Dubbing today "Scooter’s Emerald Isle Marathon Motorcade," the plan was to take Slea Head Drive all the way around the Dingle Peninsula, circling back through Dingle, then heading east to Adare, around Limerick and eventually on to Kildare. This venture would encompass 298 kilometers, or about 185 miles, though the condition of the roads could potentially make it seem MUCH longer.

However, the journey around Slea Head Drive was one we were looking forward to. A 46-kilometer trek around the very western coast of the country, this drive would allow us to see stunning scenery, some amazing old architecture and the region that was most severely hit by the Great Irish Famine of the 1840s and 1850s. Since my great-great-great-grandfather, James Kelly, emigrated from Ireland during this period, I was interested to see and learn more about these hard times.

Our first stop was along a narrow beach called Ventry Strand. The city of Ventry is most famous for the movies “Ryan’s Daugher” and “Far and Away” being filmed nearby and legendary footballer Padi O’Shea having his famous pub here. It was beautiful in the early morning light, giving breath-taking views out across the water to the famous and haunting Little Skellig and Skellig Michael islands, and back toward the mountains (including Mount Brandon, the second-highest mountain in Ireland) that comprise the Dingle Peninsula.


We came next to the famous Beehive Huts, which are ringforts that were used to enclose farmsteads in the Early Christian Period. Free farmers erected stone walls to keep their livestock nearby and protect them from cattle raiders and wild animals.


These huts are estimated to have been inhabited from before 1,200 A.D., with speculation being that they were created when Norman armies forced Irish farmers off the “good land” and to the periphery of the country. They were dubbed “beehive” huts because of the round structure created by circles of successive strata of stone. With each stratum lying a little closer to the center than the one prior, eventually only a small aperture is left at the top, which can be closed by a smaller flagstone or capstone — or left open.


The one we visited is called Caher Conor, and is considered a cashel. The small nature of the dwellings led us to speculate whether leprachauns actually lived here. This cashel was once occupied by five structures, and due to its perch on a relatively steep hill, was likely well-situated to stay protected from outsiders.


Navigating the intensely narrow road, I came around a bend and was treated to a view of the Blasket Islands (uninhabited for more than half a century) and the westernmost part of Europe — next stop, New York, 3,000 miles. For thousands of Irish emigrants, this spot marked the last sight they would ever see of their homeland, a fact marked and represented by a stunning white crucifix.


I also interpreted this representation as an invitation to say your prayers as you encountered the most difficult and treacherous aspect of Slea Head Drive, a path that reminded me of spy movies where guys with cheesy ‘staches chase each other through slim mountain passes along precipitous drops. During this stretch, there was often room for only a single car, and you even have to drive through a small stream that crosses the road. A quick peer over the side of the ledge brings an even more serious reminder of where you are and what you face with an ill-timed misstep.


Eventually, we came to a more open area of the road, which burrowed across the plains, between the mountains and the beach. Here, you could see pockmarked, vertical lines that represented the final, frantic, desperate searchings for potatoes in this area of Ireland, the last remnants of the Potato Famine. Nearly 40,000 people lived west of Dingle prior to the famine; fewer than 10,000 call this beautiful region home now. The only sign of civilization here is the tiny village of Dunquin, but the sad history of this land didn’t take away from the awe-inspiring images to be seen.


With some breathing room, I was zipping along the road at this point, only to be chastised for driving too quickly and not enjoying the surrounding scenery enough. This upset enough to lead me to drive on the wrong side of the road for about 30 seconds and also to miss Kilmalkedar Church, which dates from the first half of the 12th century. But by that point, we had already seen about a baker’s dozen’s worth of churches that date from the 12th century.

Having skipped the even more dangerous Connor Pass and circled all the way back to our starting point of Dingle (we never saw Fungi, the famous Dingle Dolphin, in Dingle Bay), I faced a 252-kilometer jaunt to Kildare. The motorcade was officially on.

There were a few traffic snarls here and there, but when we eventually made it to the M7 highway, things went smoothly. But just as soon as you think you’ve made it to a modern, open roadway, you’ll see a horse and buggy sauntering along in the left-hand lane.

Making terrific time, we eventually came to Adare, which had been described as a quaint village which could be a nice place to stop and have lunch. Wrong. We didn’t see quaintness on our block, and the “village” was super-crowded and hectic, so we elected to just keep going after a brief stop. However, we knew that Adare Manor Golf Club was nearby, and that the upcoming Irish Open was to be played there. We finally found our way on to the grounds, only to find that the shop was closed. However, as we were walking away, a kindly old Irish gentleman who had just completed a round of golf told us to walk along the course and find “the abbey.” So, keeping an eye out for the tremendously poor golfers who saw bandying about, we came to a gorgeous cemetery, then stumbled into the abbey itself.


Amazingly, this abbey lay along a fairway and right between two greens.


The “parkland” course we were on was constructed in 1900 as a nine-hole course, and eventually completed in 1992 as an 18-hole track. The tourney course, marked by the incredible Desmond Castle, was nearby, but we hung around the abbey for quite a while, taking numerous pictures.


The course was dotted by castle remnants, amazing cemeteries and other ruins, making it jarring to see a wayward golf ball careening off an 800-year-old structure. The Franciscan Abbey we had found dated back to 1464 A.D., and apparently they still hold a dawn Mass in there every Easter Sunday.


The quiet walk around the serene and beautiful old course was just what we needed after a long morning of driving. A lunch of M&Ms and power bars in the car allowed us to keep making great time through County Limerick, all the way to the somewhat-disappointing town of Kildare. Having adjusted our itinerary, we had not made plans for accommodations here, so we did some research and decided that we’d spend a little extra and stay at the Derby House Hotel, where we had our first true bad luck of the trip.

Upon arriving, we found out that one Sara Chan was the proprietor, and not only did she own two Chinese restaurants in town, but we also ran into Asian workers on each floor doing work on the carpets, having to step around them. As jarring as it was to stay in a Chinese mafia hotel in the middle of Ireland, it was even more of a surprise when we took a flight of stairs that led directly into the kitchen. Yikes.

We decided to walk into the center of town to learn more about Kildare and possibly get some directions on how to get to Newgrange (tomorrow’s destination) while avoiding the worst of the traffic near Dublin. We soon found out that the famous Irish National Stud was nearby and so was The K Club (350 euros to play this Ryder Cup course!), but two of the city’s premier draws, St. Brigid’s Well and St. Bridid’s Cathedral and Round Tower, were closed until May. Nice. But we did get some advice on a good place to eat, and after a brief rest back at the hotel, we strolled down to Silken Thomas Flanagan’s.


Deciding to eat in the restaurant rather than the pub, I enjoyed a mixed grill, which consisted of black and white puddings, tomato, egg, bangers (sausage), bacon and chips (fries). A coupla Guinnesses later, I was feeling better about our stay in Kildare.

On our way back to the hotel, we grabbed an Irish Times and learned that Kansas had won the national championship. Then, after being initially told that WiFi was available in our room, we found out that we had to go down to the hotel lounge for access. After reading some disturbing, overly descriptive stories about a gang murder in Liverpool and a brother killing his brother by stabbing him 12 times in a streetfight, I was ready for a break, so I watched some of the Liverpool-Arsenal football game in the lounge (Liverpool won, 4-2, really good game).

Having driven roughly five-sixths of the way across the entire damn country, I was ready to get some sleep in preparation for another long day of driving and sightseeing tomorrow. On the slate? Trim Castle, Newgrange … and freaking Dublin!


The next installment of the Irish adventure, Day 4, will be forthcoming in a coupla days. P.S. You can click on the pix for bigger versions if you like. All photos taken by the Scoot. Giddyup.